Air connection: In the back of the machine, besides the electrical cabinet there is a filter regulator. You connect your air supply to it. Maintain at all times an air pressure no less than 60 PSI.
Electrical connection: open the main electrical cabinet, on the top right-hand side, there is a power distribution block. Connect to it your 440-480, 3 phase power supply. Before you turn power on to the machine check the following:
- The transformer on the bottom right-hand side of the cabinet is wired correctly, meaning high voltage going in, 120 going out.
- Under the press, there is a transformer that converts the 480- to 240. This supplies the servo drive, which is mounted inside the electrical enclosure in the front of the machine. The servo drive requires 220 – 240 volts. Make sure all connections are ok.
- The vacuum pump is located under the stacker. Open the junction box and double check that all connections are ok and that it is wired to high voltage.
- Make sure that the connections to the hydraulic pump motor are ok and that the motor is wired to high voltage.
On the side of the main electrical cabinet, there are four selector switches, on-off with their corresponding indicating lights.
The top one turns power on to the machine, the second downturns on the heaters, the third downturns on the vacuum pump, and the last bottom one turns on the motor of the hydraulic pump.
To test the machine, make sure the air is connected. Turn on the power on selector switch (top one).
Disconnect the vacuum hose coming out of the vacuum pump. Briefly turn on the third selector switch (Vacuum pump on). Place your hand on the inlet, you should feel vacuum been sucked. If you get air coming out, it means that the rotation of the pump is wrong and you should switch two of the leads on the motor junction box or on the circuit protector that feeds the pump. After that, replace the vacuum hose.
To test the rotation on the hydraulic power unit, proceed as follows: on the housing of the pump itself, opposite to the motor, there is a half arrow embedded in the casting showing rotation. Turn on briefly the bottom selector switch and check that rotation is in the right direction, if not change two of the leads feeding the motor.
Testing the chains carriages: Make sure that there is a proper air supply to the machine. If there is no air pressure the chain tensioners will not work and the chains will jam in the rails. On the top of the main electrical enclosure, there is a three-way selector switch, labeled hand- auto, set it to the hand position. In the back of the machine, there is a single box with a blue push button. By depressing it, the chains will move for as long as you maintain it activated. There is also a similar button in the pendant.
Testing the light curtains: Make sure the senders were installed near the forming station and the receivers by the trim press. Once they have been aligned by eye, make sure that nothing is interfering between the sender and the receiver. On the side of the machine, by the hydraulic power unit, make sure the hydraulic hoses that feed the top cylinder on the press are not interfering. Open the main electrical enclosure, towards the right top side there are two orange modules. Turn the power on using the first selector switch. Probably each module is showing lit only two green LED lights. On top of the main enclosure towards the right, there is a white button, press it. This resets the orange safety modules. If the curtains are aligned properly, the modules will show three green LED lights. You can test if the machine is unblocked by the curtains by pressing the yellow button on top of the main electrical enclosure. By pressing it, the ovens should slide forward. The red button beside it slides them out.
Adjusting the width of the rails: The plastic material should be grabbed by the teeth of the chain about ½”. The rails are secured in the back of the machine by a gusset on each rail secured to the frame of the machine. In the front, the rails are mounted on a blue bearing that rides on the drive shaft. Also, the chains are driven by a sprocket that is clamped onto the drive shaft. To move the rails in or out, first loosen the front set of screws on the bearing and also loosen the screws on the collar that is welded to the sprocket that drives the chain. Loosen the gusset on the back, and move the rails accordingly. In the front, you may have to use a rubber mallet to tap the rails. You may want to flare the rails a little bit towards the front. Start with a ½” on each side. When moving the rails in the front, pay attention to the chains and maintain parallel according to the guide on the rails where the chains ride. After you have completed this part, secure the gussets in the back and, in the front, tighten back the set screws of the bearing and the screws on the clamp on the collar. Do this operation while you have air supplied to the machine. This will prevent the chains from binding. With all the power turned off, you should be able to turn by hand the chains by turning the front drive shaft.